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Collecting

The Return of the Signed Jewel

Why pieces from the great Paris maisons are commanding a premium at auction and in private sales.

By Isabelle Moreau · 06 Oct 2026 · 5 min read

A signature on a jewel — Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Boucheron — has always carried weight. Lately it has carried a measurable premium.

“A signed piece is design history you can wear.”

Buyers increasingly ask for original boxes, certificates and archive extracts confirming a piece’s provenance.

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